Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Story: Lunch at the Pig Farm


Note: This story was first sent out as an email about a year ago. I post it in memory of our friend, Lenore, who was with us that day, and lost her battle with cancer this year. She sits at the head of the table in the above photo, and was a tremendous help to us when we arrived as "newbies" at the beach next door to her house in Esterillos Este.

The interesting things to do in Costa Rica still amaze me. 
Our neighbors were mentioning to Linda the other day that a trip to the Pig Farm would be fun. Sayyy.........what? 

Oh yes, lunch at the Pig Farm! The pig farmers only serve lunch on Saturdays. 
Want to go this Saturday?......Sure!


So, Saturday we were off to the Pig Farm with two sets of neighbors, Richard and Lenore, who live next door; and Nancy and Dave, who had just come down to her house down the beach from us.

Her house is beautiful, but that's another story. 

For now.........what about those pigs? 
All we know is that we are going to the Pig Farm for lunch!

Will there be live pigs where we are eating? 
Do they slaughter them right there on the spot..... squealing and all? 
Like, do we pick out our pig, like they do with lobster?
The thought of it is just too weird to think about....
Linda and I were not too sure about this, but too late now, our two cars are on the road to the Pig Farm. 

Gotta think positive!


The Pig Farm is on the road to the very little town of Las Vegas, which is in the hills above acres and acres of palm oil orchards. They harvest the seed pods, which are squeezed and boiled into oil at a nearby plant. The area south of us has a lot of these orchards.


The good old United Fruit Company built these wooden houses to create little communities to house their workers years ago when it was pineapples and bananas they were planting. 
All those have been replaced with Palms.


The houses are always in a U shape around a central soccer field, or futbol field as they say here.


The Palms seem to go on and on.You could really get lost in here... a lot of roads and hardly any signs.


And the gravel road is very noisy! Rough, but better than some we've been on. I found that it was better to drive faster and go across the top of the rocks, instead of slowly and bump along on each and every one of them.


After driving for almost an hour, we finally reached the Pig Farm. There were several buildings. The one on the right is the farmer's residence. The palapa on the left has some picnic style tables where you eat. And, the sheds in the back are where the pork is cooked and sold.


That's us, walking up to the place and greeting the woman in charge. She only speaks Spanish, but when people are trying to sell you something, they work very hard to communicate. She was actually very nice and friendly.


She's at the counter helping a customer. You can buy pork here cooked or uncooked on Saturdays. These farmers supply pork to the restaurants on the other days, and whatever else pig farmers do.


We sat down at the largest table after getting some long neck Imperials from the glass refrigerator under the palapa. Lenore did the ordering for us. The choices were Yucca (boiled or fried) and Chicarones, or Chicarones Con Carne (fried pork skins or fried pork skins with meat). She ordered a grande plata with all of it, except no boiled Yucca, just fried stuff. The carne was pretty much just mean and little fat.


The kettle was smoking across in the cooking shed. Once we ordered a lot of activity commenced. I was relieved to discover that this was not actually THE Pig Farm, just the pig farmer's casa. The actual farm was a few miles away and we passed on that opportunity to tour it. The beer was cold, but making me hungry...


The oldest son was doing the stirring of the fried pig stuff. This was the view coming out of the little bano that was basically a trough surrounded by some wood, tin and concrete blocks.


They are said to have the best Chicarones in the area. Evidently it is a favorite Tico food.


Now we're talking...Yucca, Pig, Limes and Beer! Sorry vegetarians, but this stuff was good. We used toothpicks to stab the platters in the center of the table.



While we ate, more people started coming in, some in cars and some on motorcycles. 


The lady and her son walked over to the fence to talk to a friend who had just driven up on his bicycle.


Trucks come flying by every few minutes taking their cargo back and forth. This truck in the background was full of watermelons.


In fact, on our drive home we passed a field I had missed on the way there. It was full of melons too.



We made it home in plenty of time for me to walk out our back door and capture this sunset. 


What a nice Saturday in Central America. Lunch at the Pig Farm! 


Monday, March 5, 2012

STORY: Day Trip to Playa Dominical


Dominical is about 1.5 hours south of where we live in Playa Hermosa on the Central Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Its an easy day trip, so we decided to make the drive down and see what it is like. Dominical is known as a youthful surfer town with a very slow pace. This was the street scene as we turn the turn off the paved Costanera highway into Dominical.


We ran right into a traffic jam. Buses traveling to and from Panama on the Costanera come through Dominical. This traffic is only because a soccer (futbol) game was ending at the field just ahead. It is dry season here right now, so there is a lot of dust. Normally there wouldn't be many cars on the street.


We stopped at this San Clemente Restaurant and Bar for some great nachos and cervesa. They sell a great hot sauce called, "Spicy Mike's Hotter than Hades Hot Sauce." Ticos generally don't like their food too spicy hot. I loved the old VW Bus sign, so I had to take a couple of closeup photos of it.


I am amazed at how many of these old "hippie" buses are still on the road down here. I'd love to have one, but I already have a vehicle I'm working on (read my Jeep Saga post).



Oh, she's holding a bottle of Spicy Mike's! I just noticed that, maybe because I was suckered into looking elsewhere. Will the visual tricks on us never end?


The inside of San Clemente's is a lot of fun too. The ceiling is full of broken surf boards. I especially liked this tribute to the "Duke"on the way to the banos. 


There's lots of little shops up and down the street.


This one's called the "Green Room". It had a young surfer couple running the little store and coffee shop in the back. They were sitting around the patio and were friendly when we walked up. Their suntanned 12 year old son was sitting their too, and had just returned from a surfing competition in Playa Hermosa, where we live.


I was thinking I could live without the unpaved, dusty roads in Dominical during the dry season, but the beach was within a rock's throw of the main drag and I no longer need pavement anyway. Here are a few photos of the makeshift shops along this beach.



Lots of nice jewelry at low prices. Plenty of nice stuff actually. Some made on site and some imported from who knows where. A mixture of Ticos and Gringo "hippie types" selling hand-made souvenirs. It was like going back in time. There was a nice beach bar called, "Tortilla Flats" that I didn't get a shot of, but its listed in the top 50 world beach bars. We had a beer there. It wasn't the bar that was so fantastic, it was where it was sitting.







Here's the view out to the water. All just gorgeous.


Ice Cream vendors seem to be everywhere we go. We have one that pushes his little cart right down in front of our house everyday. Too tempting!


I got dizzy walking past all these booths. So much to buy for what seemed to me to not be that many customers. I'd say these people just barely squeak by.

So that's Dominical, sans much of anything to do about surfing. Someone else can write that post better than me, but surfing is a big deal here. Its a place we would love to visit once in a while, but we think we like a bit of a larger town to live near.